Today I'm thrilled to be part of a wonderful series at Sewing Mama RaeAnna and SewVery -- Snowflakes and Lace. It's the last day for the series, and there have been some fantastic ideas for sewing with lace!
I'm sharing a ruffled skirt made with dyed eyelet lace and a vintage sheet. It's big and puffy and perfect for twirling!
To start: I started with a simple skirt on which to layer the ruffles. Dana has a great tutorial for simple skirts with several different variations. (In fact, after I wrote this up I found her layered skirt tutorial. *face palm* My technique is a little different, so I'll still hit "publish.")
For the underskirt: I measured around Eliza's waist (18"). Then I measured how long I wanted the skirt (from her waist to knees). I cut a piece of fabric 1.5x her waist measurement and exactly the length I wanted the skirt to be. (The ruffle at the bottom of the skirt negates any need for adding length for the fold-over waist casing.)
So, here's what I ended up with:
Sew up the sides of the skirt and finish the raw waistband edge. Now you're ready to begin your ruffles!
1. Determine how long you'd like your ruffles to be. Be sure to allow 1/4" for seam allowance and 1/2" for hem (if you choose a traditional hem). Determine how many ruffles you'd like to have. For full ruffles, I tripled Eliza's waist measurement. (18" x 3 = 54") (The lace eyelet ruffles are the same width and length.)
2. Sew the short sides of all the ruffles together to make a loop. (Eyelet ruffles, too.)
3. Hem the bottom edge of all of the fabric ruffles. If you've got a serger, a rolled hem is the easiest. Otherwise, turn up the bottom 1/4" twice and hem.
4. Finish the top edge of all but one of the fabric ruffles. (One ruffle will be sewn to the bottom of the skirt, so it doesn't need to be finished yet.)
5. Use a long stitch to gather your first fabric ruffle. Attach the gathered ruffle to the bottom of the skirt, right sides together and matching side seams. Sew. Finish seam.
6. Press. Determine where you want your ruffles to hit. (How much do you want them to overlap? How long are your ruffles? It may take some playing around with this step.) Mark your fabric for where the ruffles will hit.
7. Gather the eyelet and sew it to the skirt wrong side of eyelet to right side of skirt. (This attachment will be hidden by the next layer of ruffle. Press lightly.
8. Repeat for all ruffle layers.
9. Now it's time for the waistband. Fold the top of the fabric down over the top ruffle - right sides together. Press. Your goal is to enclose the top ruffle seam that's sewn to the skirt so it doesn't show.
10. Now bring the top edge of the skirt back up and match its raw edge to the pressed fold you just created, fabric wrong sides together. Pin.
11. You have created a pocket for the elastic, and at the same time you'll be sewing a seam that will conceal the top ruffle attachment. Sew 1/2" from raw edge/fold meeting -- or enough seam allowance to enclose the raw edge of the top ruffle. Be sure to leave an opening through which to insert the elastic.
13. If you previously finished the raw edge of the top of the skirt, you should have a neatly finished seam inside the waistband.
14. Insert your elastic (I'm flexible with elastic size because measurements are usually a guessing game for me, and I have to determine my elastic size based on my casing size. Backwards, I know.) Adjust to size and sew it together, being careful not to twist things. Close casing.
There you go! You've got a super flouncy, super poofy, super twirly skirt with lots of personality!
I sewed up a sleeveless Flashback Skinny Tee to match with fabric from my stash. Eliza's got plenty of winter clothes, so this will be part of her Spring/Summer wardrobe.
Usually I steer clear of lots of ruffles because she's so petite I'm afraid she'll get swallowed, but she had so much fun with all this flounce!
I'm giving away 2.5 yards of gorgeous vintage lace trim, and there are lots of other goodies up for grabs, so be sure to head over to enter the giveaway! And while you're there you can check out a week's worth of lacy goodness!