Tuesday, February 18, 2014

Completed: Eucalpyt, Thurlow, & Julia

It's summer in my sewing room!

The first ensemble I've made for Spring/Summer coincides with a Project Sewn challenge. It's supposed to be inspired by a pair of shoes. I don't own many shoes, but there are two favorites. My Birkenstocks. They're 16 years old and have been recorked/resoled twice (and need it again).

And my cowboy boots.

These boots are so special. They're my first cowboy boots. I picked them out and Ryan got them for me a couple of years ago. They're the perfect color, the perfect size, and I feel hot in them. (My bunions don't, but whatever.)


Unfortunately the constant wet nastiness on the ground this winter means they've stayed in the closet. But what better time to bring them out than for this challenge? I wanted pieces that would transition through Spring, so my boots were a good starting place. Throw on some tights, and this outfit will work.

This was my second time sewing Thurlows (Sewaholic Patterns), third time sewing the Eucalypt (Megan Nielsen), and first time sewing the Julia Cardigan (Mouse House Creations). I'll break down each piece. (I'm borrowing Katie's technique for reviews.)

Pattern: Thurlow by Sewaholic
Fabric: Midweight Denim with stretch from my stash (bought at fabric.com, I think.)
Size: 0
i need to pick up a more substantial hook and eye meant for trouser waistbands to avoid this pull effect.

the welts are a hair uneven in this photo. is it the way i'm standing? dunno. let's pretend they're winking.
Modifications: 
I started from scratch with these after experiencing an over-fitting dilemma with my last pair. I figured out how to make them sit higher at the waist and fit my super long torso. As a result, they hit just below my belly button. Perfect.
  • I traced a size 0 but used the size 16 torso length. That means I had to modify the front and back pieces, the front pocket pieces, and the pocket linings. I placed the welt pockets at the size 16 line so they'd hit correctly on my rear.
  • I constructed them in a different order -- constructing the back, then the front, then sewing up the sides. I took in quite a bit from the inseam and side seams. As a result, I goofed up the grain. Fortunately it all worked out when I hacked them off.
  • These are significantly shorter than the pattern. Originally they hit above the knee, but the weightiness of my denim made that an awkward length. Also, I had tapered them too much and just had to cut them way off. Fortunately I'm pleased with the result.
  • I omitted the belt loops.
Pros:
  • This pattern is well designed and produces a professionally finished product.
  • The adjustable back seam makes waist adjustments simpler.
  • There's a wealth of information/reviews and a sew-along for support.
  • The style is attractive and adaptable -- leg widths and lengths, for example.
Cons:
  • The Thurlow is designed for a pear shape (check the measurements on the envelope), which is not a con if you're a pear shape. I'm a Gumby shape, so they required significant adjustment.
  • The fly is backwards from what I like. Btw, here's an awesome zip fly tutorial that would work with this pattern. I ripped and resewed this entire fly THREE TIMES to avoid the dreaded pecker pucker.
  • I've decided to nix the double welt pockets next time and just do single welts to avoid gaping. Or maybe add a button. Nope. Single welts.
this time both welts pockets turned out great.

this is a comfortable placement -- just below the navel



the inside is pretty, too. perhaps someday i'll change my serger thread to match what i'm sewing.
Pattern: Eucalypt by Megan Nielsen
Fabric: Lightweight cotton lawn from Joann. It was on the clearance table, and I lurrrved it enough to break my fabric fast. (It's sheer, so I'm wearing a camisole.)
Size: XS
Modifications: 
  • I raised the armscye 1/2" and the neckline 1". 
  • I used the medium length line (instead of cutting and lengthening it at the waist.)
Pros:
  • This pattern is so, so simple to construct.
  • It has tons of variation potential, which Megan suggests in the pattern booklet. (And Holly has published tutorials of possible variations.)
  • Megan's patterns are just beautiful. The instructions are detailed and the booklets themselves are just pretty.
  • It's a comfortable, easy, loose style.
Cons:
  • The rolled hem is still tough for me, but I just need more practice.
  • The original pattern has a lower neckline and armscye than that with which I'm comfortable, but the adjustment is simple since I know that going into the project.

Pattern: Julia Cardigan by Mouse House Creations
Fabric: Organic waffle knit from my stash (just enough to eek out this cardigan!)
Size: XS

Modifications: None
Pros:
  • This pattern is even simpler to construct than the Eucalypt. Not counting printing, piecing, tracing, and cutting, (ugh!) -- I could finish it in an hour, and I'm super super SUPER slow.
  • The design of the cardigan has a pretty drape that is unique and flattering
  • There are several variations, including using a doubled-over collar that negates the need for hemming.
  • The fit is nice.
Cons:
  • I don't like where the sleeves hit me on the extended cap sleeve option, so next time I'll go up a size or sew sleeves.


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These pieces will be in heavy rotation this summer! I'm excited about some of the other pieces I've got planned, too. This week I'm working on a signature style piece for Project Sewn. The weather has finally warmed up, though, so I won't be in the sewing room much!

12 comments:

  1. You are SO super, cute!! Love this whole outfit on you and that pop of color inside the shorts is really fun :)

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    1. Thanks, Lindsay! The waistband lining is my favorite part, too. :)

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  2. Very cute outfit! I rally love the print on the inside of the waistband.

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  3. You look great. Such a beautiful woman in a beautiful outfit. And those shoes: Great!

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  4. Gorgeous outfit Michelle. Love the smiling shorts :) And the Julia cadi is beautiful! I should get that pattern I think :)

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    Replies
    1. Jenya, I've seen so many beautiful versions of the Julia. It's really versatile and an easy sew.

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  5. Adorable.. Love the whole outfit.. Happy sewing.

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  6. Everything came together so nicely, I really like the combination of the colors. I've heard a lot of good things about the Thurlow pattern.

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    1. Thank you, Rachel! I like the Thurlow, but honestly I haven't tried any others. If I compare them to RTW, anything I make is better than what I can buy as far as fit goes.

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  7. I love everything about this look! I actually have all 3 patterns in my stash but so far have only made Eucalypt (in a heavier linen -- will have to try it in a lightweight fabric like this). I love how yours turned out!

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