Completed: Bridesmaid Dress

My sister's a married woman! She and her lovely husband are honeymooning in the Caribbean as I type this post. The wedding was spectacular, and we all had a wonderful time.

My sister and parents did 90% of the decorating and 100% of the planning for the wedding. Unfortunately distance made it difficult for me to be involved as much as I'd have liked, BUT my sister asked me to sew some important pieces: my own dress, Eliza's flower girl dress, the garters (one she kept and one she tossed), and a veil for her reception exit. 

This week I'll be sharing details of my dress and Eliza's dress. I'll also share a brief post about the other two pieces.

First up -- my bridesmaid dress.

Amanda asked all six bridesmaids to wear black dresses with gold sparkly shoes. She wanted knee-length dresses, but other than that left us to our own devices. Originally I wanted a dress with a sweetheart neckline and sheer yoke, but I couldn't figure out how to drape the yoke properly. I found this LeAnne Marshall pattern, and in the end decided to stick with it as it was designed.

However, my fabric was much thicker than I'd anticipated, and when it came time to attach the silk yoke, the weight difference was a disaster. I tried to sew the yoke on five times (at least), and finally had a late-night meltdown and considered scrapping the whole thing and buying a dress. (This was less than two weeks before the wedding, of course.)

After much thought and prayer and gnashing of teeth, I finally had the idea to add sleeves in a style similar to the Sewaholic Cambie. It worked like a charm.

The fabric is a thick cotton, very twill-like with lines for texture. It has just enough stretch to make it comfortable. I bent over, squatted, and literally ran around all day Friday and was comfortable the whole time. (My feet -- now that's another story.) All of these photos were taken today after wearing the dress through the whole wedding prep, wedding, and reception. And wadding it up in my suitcase to bring it home.

Details

Pattern:  Simplicity 1353 LeAnne Marshall Collection (View B)

Fabric: cotton from Mood. It has a medium drape and ridges for texture. I really, really like this fabric, but it's not the kind of fabric for which this dress was designed. I got lucky with the result (other than the yoke fiasco).

Adjustments: Lengthened bodice. Added straps.

Thoughts: I highly recommend this pattern. The instructions are well written, and it's a well designed pattern. The waist hits high, so I can see how the pleats might give too much volume in the hip area, but it gives me the illusion of curves, which is nice.

I had to re-work the pleats to line up with the bodice seams.

There are a lot of pieces to this dress: the bodice is in seven pieces and is lined. There's an underskirt and overskirt, too. My Elsa dresses prepared me as they're identical in the bodice construction.

Also -- pockets!!! Having pockets on the wedding day was awesome.

All in all, I was very pleased with the look and performance of this dress.

Up next is Eliza's! It beats mine to pieces.

Completed: Eliza's Fall Ensemble #1

First up on the list for Eliza's fall wardrobe is a pair of jeggings. She has a polka dotted pair that she's worn threadbare, and a lightweight knit pair that she loves despite their being two sizes too small.

It was time for a replacement pair.

Here's what I started with:

also, my feet are jacked up. but seeing that flaming duct tape that holds my cutting mat together makes me SO HAPPY.

I started with the polka-dotted pair, which I ripped apart and used to draft a new pattern. When I cut the new ones too short, I decided to add an angled detail at the ankle. For the ankle pieces, the pockets, the yoke, and the front pockets (which I didn't photograph), I used the reverse side of this denim-look knit. It's super shiny, but of course shows up as a dull gray in photos. There's a sheen to the knit that doesn't translate into photos either.

But it does translate into pants that my all-things-shiny-loving daughter will wear. Score.

I used navy thread for all the topstitching. Why? Because I didn't have silver.

And now the Bimaa. I've made this shirt several times (four times, actually), but this is the first time with the shawl collar. I used an old dress of my sister's for the collar, sleeve bands, and waist band. When it came time to find coordinating fabric, I had a tough time choosing from my stash. I knew Eliza would only wear it if certain criteria were met (shine!), so I finally landed on this teal fabric with metallic stripes.

Stats:

Patterns: Bimaa Sweater by LouBee Clothing (shawl option). Self-drafted jeggings.

Fabric: Upcycled knit for sweater bands and shawl. Other fabrics from Jo-Ann. 

Thoughts: I would like this outfit in my size. Really.

I need to bring the neckline up on the Bimaa. I know this and just keep forgetting. Also, I need to shorten the sleeves a tad. Then the 3T will fit her perfectly. There are a few more Bimaas on the list for the Fall, including a hood version and a maxi dress. The Girl loves long dresses.

The jegging pockets are a little big for her tiny tush.

This look was inspired by the "'80s Cartoon" theme for Project Run & Play week one. (I was thinking "Jem" with the zig zags and metallic fabric.) It also fits the upcycled theme (week two) and the denim theme (week three).  Too bad I didn't finish it in time for any of those sew-along linky parties. Ha. And. . . meh.

Up next: a denim skirt with tights and (another) Bimaa. Then my practice version of The Bridesmaid Dress. I'm saving some awesome t-shirts for the boys for Kids Clothes Week (October 20-26).

Kids Clothes Week Fall 2013 (The Plan)

Next week is Kids Clothes Week, and I've got a plan.

Fortunately, thanks to Children's Place, Lee got three pairs of jeans and a pair of chinos for $36 shipped. Incredible. So, the boy doesn't need pants right now.

He needs long-sleeved t-shirts. That's why I bought the Flashback Skinny Tee pattern for big kids. Considering I'll be making these for the kids until they go to college, it's well worth the $10 investment. (I've made at least a dozen versions of this pattern so far.)

So. . . first up, a Flashback Skinny for Lee.

He also needs church shirts, so I'll make him a Henry Shirt (from Sewing for Boys) to wear over his Flashback Skinny.

source

Finally, I'm ready to sew up the Music Class Blouse + Skirt for Eliza. I bought the Oliver + S pattern and fabric for the project more than a year ago. Hopefully there's still enough fabric there. (I'm planning View A for the blouse.)

If I've got time, I'd like to do something for Daniel. He's got more clothes than he needs (yay for hand-me-downs!), but he's such a pleasure to sew for and I don't want him to feel left out. Maybe matching Raw Edged Raglans for him and Lee? Last year's versions were a hit. Maybe I can make it with long sleeves.

My goal is to have everything cut and ready to sew when the week begins. I doubt I'll get it all finished, but maybe I'll get close. There are a lot of button holes in this post.

Are you planning to sew along?

Completed: The Henry Shirt Wearable Muslin

One of the main pieces I'm planning for the boys' fall wardrobe is The Henry Shirt from Sewing for Boys. I've got three planned for each of them.

There are a dozen of Ryan's old dress shirts in my upcycle pile, but it takes two large men's dress shirts to create one shirt for the boys.

Enter The Henry Shirt. It calls for two fabrics -- perfect. Two of Ryan's shirts that coordinate will make one Henry. It's a button-up style (the pattern has snaps, but I'll go with buttons) that can be layered. It will be perfect for church or dressy casual occasions.

Because I'm planning so many of them, I wanted to do a test version. The reviews of the pattern indicated that it's boxy and runs wide and short. Lee is an average sized almost-6-year-old boy, so I sewed up the size 6/7 knowing it would likely be too big.

It was. But he'll be able to wear it eventually, so no big deal. I didn't add the buttons because they'll never be used anyway.

Here are the things I love about this design:
the pockets
the box pleat
the curved yoke
the raglan sleeves
the enclosed seams and neat finish
the opportunity for embellishment (piping, anyone? embroidery on the pockets?)

Here are the things I don't love about this design:
the collar
the collar (It's worth mentioning twice. This collar and I had words, y'all.)
the boxiness

It's awesome enough that I will still sew up my planned versions.
Here are the changes I'll make:
raise the pockets higher and make them taller
use the smaller size (4/5) everywhere but length (6/7)
consider narrowing the box pleat
add 1" to the size (6/7) length
rethink that collar and maybe reduce its size. it just seems off scale.
use buttons instead of snaps
add a size tag. for the love, WHY can't I ever remember to do that?

Stats:
Pattern: The Henry Shirt from Sewing for Boys
Fabric: Ryan's old dress shirts
Size: 6/7
Modifications: None
Thoughts: This pattern is rated Advanced, and I get that. While I don't consider myself advanced, there are some curved seams and such that could offer challenges.

I didn't have a bit of trouble until that stinkin' collar. I could NOT figure out how to get the edge of the collar to conceal the top of the button placket. Ugh. It was bad. It turned out okay, but still. Too much effort there. So much so that Ryan offered to help. And I considered letting him.

The reviews for this pattern were tough. The main problem is there aren't enough diagrams in the book to explain the steps in detail. And unfortunately there was a great sew-along, but the pictures there didn't provide enough detail to help me with the collar. (Although they did answer the tricky question of which side of the collar is the top and which is the bottom.) If you sew this pattern, I highly recommend checking out the sew-along at Thar She Sews and Bilingual Baby.

Overall it's got enough awesome details that I feel it's worth sewing again.

Now if I can't beat that collar into submission, I reserve the right to change my mind.

(Project Run & Play starts September 9th. I'll be using this pattern during the "Mad for Plaid" theme during week 3. So far that's the only week to which I'm totally committed, but I've found myself daydreaming about how to re-mix the free Oliver + S Popover Dress pattern for the week 1 challenge... ... ...)

Completed: Washi Wearable Muslin

I finished my first Washi! I'm calling this one a wearable muslin because there are still a few tweaks left to make. It was part of my Spring/Summer 2013 plan. Some of the projects will be carried over into the Fall, but not this one!

First, let me state the obvious.

I've got to fix the bust darts. I assure assure assure you, they don't look this bad in real life. Blame it on the humidity (which is what I'm blaming everything on these days), but these pictures make it look obscene. 

Really. They're not that bad. BUT, they need work. Namely I'll stop sewing 1.5" from the apex like my IG friend Jenn suggested.

Remember: worse in pictures.

Ugh.

This fabric came was leftover from my Macaron, sewn a year ago this month. When I finished this Washi, I held it up for Ryan's approval. "You've already made one," he said. I didn't bother trying to convince him that it's totally different because. Well, it's kind of not.

I lamented the almost yard of leftover fabric after the Macaron. It's one of my only complaints about Colette's patterns that I've sewn. There's been a lot of fabric left over on a couple of my projects. Like enough for a whole other garment.

I opted to omit the cap sleeves because a) I'm not a fan of cap sleeves, b) I AM a fan of my new tattoo which peeks out below, and c) we've moved to a place that is humid enough to swim mid-air. No more sleeves for me, friends.

I really like the empire waist on this dress. And the shirring in the back. (You can see that better in some close-ups below.) The pockets are pretty amazing, too. WHY do all my dresses not have pockets?

They will now.

I also like the length. It hits right above the knee.

This pattern went together so easily. I'm not wild about the dart method -- you cut out the dart before sewing it, which makes it hard to alter -- but other than that it was super easy to fit and sew.

I added a contrasting fabric, which means I had to hack off the pattern below the back shirring line, add seam allowance to compensate for the hack, and line up the seams at the side. It was painless.

I also added a contrasting hem band to break up some of the busyness of the fabric.

You can see I top-stitched all the way around the neckline and armholes to make things stay put.

The shirring wasn't difficult, but I need more practice.

I opted to line the bodice, so the shots below are of the inside. Rae offers a lovely video tutorial series on that process. I'd MUCH prefer lining to facings.

Stats:
Pattern: Washi -- Made by Rae
Fabric: Linen/Cotton Blend (Dena Designs for the patterned linen)
Size: XS with no alterations to sizing
Modifications: Omitted cap sleeves. Used contrasting fabric for skirt, which required seaming skirt back to back bodice. Lined bodice. Added contrasting skirt hem.
Next Time: I'm sewing it up next in an Anna Maria Horner voile, but I've got less than needed so the skirt will be narrower.

I'm making alterations to reduce the tiny gaping in the neckline. Also, I'll modify the darts a tad.

Completed: Eucalypt Tank with Contrast Fabric

Yesterday over at the Shaffer Sisters I shared this version of the Eucalypt Tank Dress.

Today I'm sharing the second version I made -- the Eucalypt Tank with the front-seam option. I only had a half-yard of the contrasting Liberty fabric, and to make it work I hacked the pattern off at the shoulder *forehead slap* instead of at the lengthen/shorten line. So, the armholes are snug. It's still an easy breezy top that'll get plenty of wear this summer.

Stats
Pattern: Megan Nielsen Eucalypt Tank
Fabric: Liberty of London (floral) and Anna Maria Horner Little Folks -- both cotton voile
Thoughts: I had a little pocket all ironed and sewn. (The floral fabric placed on the solid-ish side.) But I just couldn't get the placement right.
Next Time: Well, first I'll make sure I've got enough fabric. But I like this contrast fabric idea. It doesn't take much at all, and it's a great way to add interest.

Completed: Summer Dress 3 Ways

Next up on the Spring/Summer sewing list: a Summer Tank Dress - 3 ways.

First things first. I got my haircut. My stylist is in Memphis, and I won't be able to go back for a very long time, so it's super super short. I love it. 

The dress. I started with the Renfrew again -- my t-shirt block. I raised the neckline, cut the shirt off right below the bust, and omitted sleeves. Instead of traditional facings, I serged around the neckline and armholes, then just turned them under twice and stitched.

The fabric for the skirt is also knit.

For the skirt, I simply measured about 1.5 times around my waist (which was exactly the amount of fabric I had - whew) and sewed up the side seam. 

On my last summer dress, I gathered the fabric the traditional way before attaching the bodice. I tried that this time, too, but wasn't happy with the results. The waist seam was wavy and weird. 

Enter the Internets. I've seen maxi dress tutorials. Lots of them. But when I saw this one from A Small Snippet, I squealed. She had a secret that made attaching the skirt a breeze -- elastic thread!

It was surprisingly easy. I simply wound the elastic thread around my bobbin, dropped it in, kept regular thread up top, and sewed along the top of the skirt. It gathered beautifully as I went along. I used elastic thread again when I attached the skirt and bodice.

It alleviated the problem of The Wonky Seam, it slid right on without popping any threads. Genius.

(LeAna's tutorial is for attaching a woven-fabric skirt to a store-bought tank. It's adorable.)

The belt can be tied in the front, the back, or omitted entirely. There are endless ways to style it, but let's be honest. I'll wear it with my 14-year-old Birks and call it a day.

My camera remote needs a new battery, so taking pictures was a pain. Daniel generously offered to step in and help get my focus right. 

Every time I finish a new dress, he is the first one to say, "Mommy! That dress is beautiful!" This kid. He kills me.

Stats

Pattern: Self-drafted (heavily modified Renfrew).

Fabric: Knit from the Spiritex warehouse sale. (My stack is quickly dwindling.)

Thoughts: I'd make 100 of these and wear them every day this summer.

Next time: There's nothing I'd change about it. Gasp! Has that ever happened before? Next time I'll make a maxi if I've got enough fabric.

Completed: Renfrew Remix

Here's another one from my Spring/Summer 2013 plan. It's a Renfrew with a twist.

My inspiration was this Shabby Apple Conservatory Garden dress. The Shabby Apple version (currently on sale for $49) is made with a lined silk skirt and jersey top.

I opted for a jersey top and quilting cotton for the skirt. Originally I intended to make the entire skirt top gathered, but I cut it out with the print upside down and had to improvise and just gather the center. (I am forever fouling up directional prints.) Also, even though they were cut and ready to go, I forgot to add the pockets. The seams are already serged, but one of these days I'm going to take this dress and these skirts and have a pocket-adding afternoon.

To make the top I used the Renfrew pattern and added a wide waist. I cut four rectangular pieces and constructed it so the inside of the waistband is lined with another layer of jersey and there are no raw edges. It's for comfort and for stability because I wasn't sure how weighty the skirt would be.

Next time I make one, I'll take pictures and do a short tutorial.

I put together the dress front, then the back, and then the sleeves. Then I pinned the side seams to snug it up and get the fit right. The neckband and sleeve cuffs went on last.

It's my first time mixing knit and woven (in a big-girl dress), so I'm pretty excited with the result. There are some things I'd change about it (centering the huge part of the print, for instance), but overall I'm pleased. It's something I could definitely tweak and end up with a great little go-to dress pattern.

Question: What do I do about my bra showing? The t-shirt top doesn't feel too tight, and I want a snug fit. Do I ignore it? Is it a fashion faux pas?

Stats
Pattern: Modified Renfrew
Fabric: Top - cotton jersey with a bit of weight from Spiritex. Skirt - Kumari Holiday by Dena for Free Spirit bought from Sew Mama Sew during one of their $6/yard sales. (They're closing their shop. Tear.)
Size: 4
Modifications: cropped, added waistband, added skirt
Extra Thoughts: I've tossed my 0/2s and started re-tracing ALL of my shirt patterns to size 4-6. Above the boobs I'm a 4/6, below the boobs I'm a 0/2. This shirt fit my shoulders perfectly. Live and learn, man. Live and learn.
Next time: fully gather the skirt top, tighten up arm cuffs, lengthen stitch length on top stitching, skip top stitching on upper waist seam, taper below bust to size 0 at waist.