Tested: Birkin Flares by Baste & Gather

I wear jeans every single day. A few years ago I finally bought two pairs that fit properly; both were "designer" jeans.

They lasted 2.5 years, which didn't justify the cost. The knees blew out and the seams started shredding. They were too much Designer and not enough Work Horse.

I need jeans that'll survive my crawling around cleaning under beds and hanging out on my knees cleaning toilets. My jeans have to be comfortable enough to sleep in but sturdy enough to wear camping.

High Quality + Durable + Excellent Fit + Under $50 = Must Sew Myself

My ideal is two pairs: a wide leg and a narrow leg. NOT skinny jeans. The Gingers were close to right, and the tutorial and sew-along for those is stellar. But they weren't just right.

So when Lauren started posting teaser photos of her new pattern, the Birkin Flare jeans, I sent her an email and begged to test them.

I do not apologize for VPLs. 

The testing process itself was fun, especially since we all chatted in a Facebook group along the way. And once I slid these babies on, I'm pretty sure several angels got their wings.

She's made several tweaks and has plans to do another round of testing. The crotch depth and shape is perfect for me, which is hardest for me to alter. The waistband hits just below my belly button, and I didn't have to adjust anything! (These are size 24 and my measurements are 26" waist and 34" hips for reference. She narrowed the yoke and waist to fit a 24" waist in the second version.)

In addition to the rise, I really like the illustrations for this pattern. They're line drawings and very clear and easy to follow.

There are a few things I'll do differently next time: for example, I've got a pocket template for just the size I like. I'll use a different fly method, but the one in the pattern is adequate -- just not my preferred way of doing it. I'll narrow my fly topstitching; the belt loop, pocket, and fly topstitching are crowding each other in my version. (I didn't follow the template she provided with the pattern.)

Finally, I'll loosen things up 1/8" at each side seam. I'm one turkey dinner away from busting out of these puppies. They'll stretch over time, but my Cone Mills denim will have less of that bagging out effect.

Victory! I'm ready to cut into my Cone Mills denim!

Tested: Claire PJs by Cottage Mama

This week The Cottage Mama released her newest pattern: The Claire Pajamas. I tested these a couple of weeks ago and want to share my (Eliza's) version with you.

Here's the pattern's description:

The Claire Pajamas are the quintessential classic sleepwear pattern. The pattern includes several options such as a full-length nightgown with long or short sleeves, as well as a two-piece pajama ensemble, including a top with long or short sleeves paired with pants. This pattern also contains a matching 18″ doll pattern for all design options.

I sewed up the short-sleeved top and pants option.

Sewing for Eliza is so hit-and-miss these days. I'm getting better at predicting what she'll like, but I'm still reluctant to spend copious time on an ensemble that I have to beg her to wear.

This time we went together to pick out fabric for her pajamas to allow her to feel involved in the process. It was a lot of fun. She's such a hoot, and listening to her "ooh" and "ahh" over trims and fabrics was super amusing. I told her it needed to be from the flannel row, and she immediately landed on the tiny stars. With a bit of help from me guiding her to all the coordinating larger-scale prints, she picked the rabbits. She also chose the flower buttons. Girl's got style.

Lindsay narrowed the shoulders, narrowed the width of the top, and shrank the bibs on the smaller sizes after testing. I sewed the 3T for Eliza (she was at the smaller end of the chart for this size), and the lengths were exactly what I'd expect. With the minor tweaks Lindsay made, I think the fit will be spot on in the final version.

Isn't this design adorable? Someone described it as "Little House on the Prairie-style." I know we'll use this pattern over and over, especially if Eliza gets an American Girl doll and wants matching outfits. (Oh, the cuteness possibilities. I die.)

My favorite parts: the tiny ruffle around the bib, the cuffs on the pants, the elastic sleeves, and the contrasting fabric inside the elastic waistband. 

As always, it was a pleasure testing for Lindsay. She designs adorable clothes, sure, but more importantly she is open to suggestions and truly appreciates the time and financial commitment of testers and those who purchase and sew her patterns.

Completed: Kate & Rose Giselle Dress (and a GIVEAWAY)

My style has a split personality: in the winter, I like things fitted. In the summer, I like things loose and flowing. When it's 120* and 250% humidity, the last thing I need is something touching my skin.

Winter Style: Tight and Trendy
Summer Style: Bohemian Hippy

When given the opportunity to test for Kati from Kate & Rose Patterns, I knew the new Midtown Collection would perfectly suit my summer style. I chose to test the Giselle Dress. Here's Kati's description:

Giselle is a V-neck dress with shaped midriff and gathers over the bust.

View A has a fitted midriff that hits at actual waist, three-quarter-length gathered sleeves, and gathered dirndl-style skirt. Instructions include options for finishing sleeves with two sleeve band styles, and option to substitute fuller skirt.

View B is a sleeveless maxi dress with narrower shoulders, empire waistline and a tiered skirt. Both views are shaped in the back by elastic and waist ties.

I chose to sew up View A. In the testing phase, I could not figure out how to get those gathers over the bust to sit right. Kati sent me some tips for a SBA, and then I saw Thumbelina's Giselle with a SBA. Because of the nature of my fabric and its stretch (gauze), it's still a little roomy in the bust at the end of the day, but this version fits nicely overall.

Y'all. I had an epiphany after sewing this up. I'm going to start eliminating bust darts/gathers altogether. It's going to make my sewing life so much easier, and it will make my garments fit better.

this is really bright. the actual color is more muted.

I can't tie a bow to save my life, but the tie on the back of the dress is a nice feature. I skipped the elastic.

Details:

Pattern: Giselle Dress by Kate & Rose

Size & Modifications: Small. Added a tiny bit of length to the bodice and midriff. Eliminated elastic at the back. SBA. Underlined bodice and midriff pieces.

Fabric: The story of this fabric is a blog post in its own. Originally I planned a dyed version and bought cream 100% cotton gauze (they didn't have white) and cotton thread. But I ran out of fabric and had to go back to Jo-Ann for more. There was no cream gauze left on the shelf, and the employee I encountered was reluctant to help me locate more. So, I bought white and figured everything would be fine. I dyed it shibori style after sewing the whole thing.

Long story short, the result was okay. I had to dye and re-dye it. The RIT dye I used was navy, and you see the dress is purple. Not my favorite color. In hindsight I should've held out for white fabric and dyed the fabric prior to sewing the dress.

Still, the process was fun, and I'd like to try it again. Shibori sounds more sophisticated than tie-dyeing, no? It's essentially the same thing.

Pros:

• This style is so easy for summer. I'm guaranteed to stay cool.
• There are tons of fabrics that would work. I would consider underlining or lining the midriff piece if your fabric is very lightweight.
• It's so comfortable. And pretty. Hippy chic. Perfect.
• Kati's directions are clear and the illustrations are extremely helpful. 
• She includes both templates and written-out measurements for the skirt pieces to allow for either preference. (I prefer the template.)
• No zippers or buttons - easy on, easy off. The pattern is designated as Advanced Beginner, and I'd say that's appropriate.

Cons:

• This pattern takes a lot of fabric. I'd recommend buying a little more, especially if you're getting 45" fabric. I didn't have enough for the bottom skirt panels.
• The bodice may take work if you're flat-chested. (It might take work for girls with girls, too. I've never been a girl with girls.) Definitely make a muslin of the bodice -- not just to determine fit adjustments, but also to ensure the seam sits at a comfortable place on the bust. (It has the potential of hitting at an awkward spot.)
• There's gathering. (This may not be a con for you people. Gathering and I have words. Every single time.)

You don't have to emulate my hippy-esque version. Oona's floral version is sophisticated and dreamy (with sleeves!). Or there's this dress from Nordstrom that shows another possibility for the Giselle in black:

original source

Kati was such a wonderful designer with whom to work. She was incredibly patient and appreciative. There's a reason I prefer sewing patterns created by independent designers (146 reasons, actually).

Kati JUST released the paper versions of her Midtown Collection patterns, and today is her birthday! To celebrate she's offering 15% off ALL orders through Sunday, June 22nd. I'm off to order some of her gorgeous hot-iron transfers. Wouldn't embroidery be fabulous on the midriff of the Giselle? Yum.

As a special treat, Kati is giving away one of the PDF patterns from her Midtown Collection to one of you! Just leave a comment below, and I'll get my kids to pick a number out of a hat, choose the comment that corresponds with the number, and you'll get YOUR OWN Kate & Rose pattern! The giveaway will close at 11:59pm, Friday June 20, 2014. 

Tested: Alder Skirt by Imagine Gnats

Today marks the release of the Alder Skirt from Imagine Gnats!

This skirt! It's so cool. Here's the description of the pattern from her site:

the alder is a retro inspired a-line skirt with generous pockets and an easy-going style. the pleated front and back darts make for a flattering silhouette, while the elastic back means no finicky closures and a comfortable fit. for a less pronounced a-line shape, flat front and pocket options are also included. the alder skirt is perfect for everyday wear, and includes options that are simple enough for a beginner sewist. 

I chose to sew up version A with the bowed-out pockets and front pleat. 

The skirt is designed to sit pretty low, which is clear from looking at the tester photos. I tried to wear mine on my natural waist -- that's why the elastic looks especially bunched up below. If I wear it lower the elastic stretches out enough to see the two back darts. If I drop it, it also hits closer to my knees.

The side seams wrap around the back a little, which allows for the bowed-out pockets. Pockets = Awesome.

I added piping to the top pocket seam and to the front seams. If I'd had enough, I considered adding it to the bottom of the waistband seam.

Details:
Pattern: Alder Skirt (for women) from Imagine Gnats
Fabric: Cotton twill bought at Textile Fabrics in Nashville during our Girls' Day Out. I bought this fabric to make the Jedediah Shorts for Ryan, but. Well.
Size: 4
Modifications: Added piping.
Thoughts:

• I like the pockets and unique design.
• It's the perfect length for my preferences.
• The medium weight twill I used was the heaviest fabric I'd recommend for this project. I'd like to use a very lightweight denim or quilting cotton for my next version. 
• There are lots of opportunities for variation: cutting different fabrics for the pockets and lining, cutting side panels on the bias, adding piping or other seam embellishments, eliminating pleat and elastic back, making pockets flat, etc.
• Next time I'd like to eliminate the elastic altogether and add a side zipper instead. Rachael is planning a tutorial for that variation.
• Next time I'll also sew a size smaller and fit it to my natural waist. Because I want it to ride on my natural waist, I'll eliminate the pleat and perhaps make the pockets flat (variation B).

I was grateful for the opportunity to test this skirt. (I may have stalked her IG account a *tiny* bit and JUMPED when she recruited size 4s.) Rachael's enthusiasm and kindness made it fun, which I think is reflected in the pattern. 

Tested: Stellar's Vest from Elegance & Elephants

I've been longing for a vest pattern for the boys for a while now, and Heidi has delivered a great one with the latest Elegance and Elephants pattern. (It'll be released soon!)

It's the Stellar Vest. The pattern includes a dress option (with pockets) and is designed to be layered. It's a quick, easy sew and doesn't use a great deal of fabric. (About a yard for Lee's size.)

For this test version, I used two of Ryan's old vests. I probably could have used just one vest and kept the original arm and neck bands, but because I was testing it was important to stick to the pattern's measurements and not fiddle with widths.

Here's what I really liked: the proportions of the bands are scaled appropriately, the pattern and instructions are well executed, the fit is just right for layering, and it's a great wardrobe staple.

The only challenge I had was centering the "V" and making sure it was neat. And not melting the synthetic fabric when I pressed it.

Stats:

Pattern: Stellar's Vest and Dress from Elegance & Elephants

Fabric: Upcycled Docker's vest

Size: 6

Modifications: None

Thoughts: I'll be using this pattern for the boys' Spring photos outfit! I'll choose the fabric to coordinate with Eliza's dress, and the vest will be layered over a plain white dress shirt and chino pants. Vests are kind of our thing for Spring photos.

Now if I could just find a location as gorgeous as Biltmore. . . (here are our last three years' photos) 

Tested: Santa Cruz Henley by Peek-a-Boo Pattern Shop

Here's a yet-to-be-released pattern from Peek-a-Boo Pattern Shop:

The Santa Cruz. (It's for boys or girls. The girl's version is named the Virginia Beach.)

The pattern has lots of options: hooded, Henley with buttons or snaps, short or long sleeves, dress with gathers at the chest or without. And it goes up to size 12! I've seen testers' versions of several sizes, and I'm determined to sew myself a sized-up version this summer. Amy's still tweaking and tuning, and the pattern will be released next Thursday.

I used knit from my stash -- the green is an organic knit. It's so super soft.

the walking foot helped me line up the stripes

I couldn't decide on fabric placement, so I decided to do a double sleeve. I'm not sold on it, to tell the truth. But man, this shirt looks comfortable. Do you ever finish something for your kids and get jealous watching them wear it? No? Just me?

one more for the grandparents. or for a passport photo.

Details:

Pattern: The Santa Cruz (and Virginia Beach) from Peek-a-Boo Pattern Shop

Fabric: interlock from my stash

Size: 6  

Modifications: Amy gives you instructions on the best time to narrow it down if you prefer a slimmer fit. I waited until the entire shirt was finished to try it on and decide to adjust the width. The perils of sewing after bedtime and not fitting as I go. . .

Added a double sleeve, which isn't in the pattern.

Thoughts: This is the first time I've sewn a Peek-a-Boo Pattern. I KNOW! For shame! I've bought them and just haven't sewn them up. I've already decided to add several others to my Spring List.

I like that the sizes print in different colors, she includes a pattern piece for the neck band, and if you follow the cutting lines your notches magically appear after the pieces are cut out. She's prolific, and I can see why her patterns are so popular. 

Last week I finished a Burda blouse for myself, so it was refreshing to have a pattern that included seam allowances and actual pictures with the instructions. Gah. Burda.

My button holes turned out perfectly. After the drama my machines gave me on this project (witches), that was a blooming miracle.

Also, please don't tell Sheila (my Singer) that I just called her a witch.

(20 points if you noticed the stripes on my sleeves were reversed from the body of the shirt. Not on purpose.)

I'm going to add my Peacock coat and Figgy's outfit to the Project Run & Play pool next week for Signature Style. The kids have (more than) enough winter clothes, and I couldn't justify sewing along with Kids Clothes Week or cranking out new stuff for PR&P. It's been neat to see everyone else's creations, though.

Sew away, sewing friends! You all inspire me!

Completed: Super Skinny Pants and a Bimaa

Today Melissa released the latest from Blank Slate Patterns -- the Super Skinny Pants. I got to test these twice, so here's the version I made for Eliza.

Two is my favorite age. Really, it is. And 12. 

But two. Oh my. She's independent, moody, and completely cuddly. She feels everything in such a big way. 

She's starting to have an opinion about clothes, too. I'll start my review by telling you she loved these pants. The first version I tested for Lee, and he was willing to help but wasn't thrilled with the style because he likes more ease in his pants. 

Every time I slipped these on Eliza to adjust the fit she said, "Ooooh. I yike these."

Don't be fooled by the face. She "yikes" them. 

I'm a sucker for matching ensembles, so I sewed up a Bimaa Sweater to match the striped ribbed knit on the side of the pants. The Bimaa is my girlfriend. Eventually I'll venture out into other options besides the cowl, but look. A cowl on a toddler? I'm swooning.

This pattern includes a zip fly, which isn't optional as these pants are designed to be tight and require unzipping. Don't fret if you've never sewn one; Melissa's instructions for a fly zipper are awesome. She's led me through three now, and they've each turned out beautifully.

The stripe down the side allows the pants to expand, but it also adds interest. I thought it'd be neat to add stamped fabric or something with a graphic print next time.

Also, I like the elastic in the back waistband. Eliza is slim, so I was able to custom fit these while still maintaining the trendy flat front.

A few things to keep in mind if you sew this pattern:
The fly is necessary.
Rib knit with at least 50% stretch is necessary.
Choose size based on hip measurements. They are tight.
There aren't pockets. (I guess you could add them, but with the stripe and tightness it might be tough.)

Eliza is long-waisted, so I probably need to add a little to the back rise for the next pair. Maybe by then she'll be out of diapers and in underwear. Ha. Hahaha. Hahahahahahaha.

Because I can't resist the cheeks, here are a few more just for fun. (Or for her grandmothers.)

Stats:
Pattern: Super Skinny Pants by Blank Slate Patterns / Bimaa Sweater by EmmylouBeeDoo
Fabric: Knits for the Bimaa and side stripe from my (dwindling) stash / upcycled khaki pants for fabric, zipper, and button for the pants. *the pants were mine from waitressing days in college and were practically worn through*
Size and fit: 2t all around. Melissa worked hard to get the fit right on these. I'd check measurements carefully because they're designed to be tight.
Thoughts: The only issue I had was with the cowl on the Bimaa. Trying to sew across the rib of the knit left the seam wavy. It hides easily with this style neckline.

The pants are marked Intermediate, and I'd agree with that designation. They came together pretty easily, though. Man I love PDF pattern instructions. A photo with every step? Yes, please.

Eliza needs more pants like these.