Tutorial and Pattern: Winter Hat with Earwarmers

Last year when I bought Eliza's winter coat, it included a precious hat unlike any I'd seen. It had built-in ear warmers, but they stayed snug to her head and were integrated into the hat in an appealing way.

She's worn the hat all winter, and it's starting to show signs of wear. So, when fleece went on sale (as it often does), I snagged some and sketched out a pattern to re-create the hat. 

The pattern is for a size 2t, or to fit a child with around 19"-20" head circumference.

Materials:
Fleece fabric (less than 1/2 yard will do)
Pattern pieces (available FREE here)

use 1/2" seam allowance unless indicated otherwise

I've used a serger for the purposes of the tutorial to ensure stitching lines show. A serger is not necessary to complete this project.

Tutorial
1. Cut out pattern pieces. (Make sure fold line for ear warmer piece is either parallel or perpendicular to selvage edge of fabric when cutting.)
2. Mark dart on both upper hat pieces.
3. Mark back and front of upper hat pieces.

4. Fold upper hat pieces right sides together and pin along dart.
5. Sew along dart line. Trim seam allowance.

6. Sew top pieces right sides together around curve. Leave straight edges open.

7. Trim and notch seam allowance. Press lightly.

 

8. Fold ear warmer pieces right sides together.

9. Sew along short edge. Repeat for second ear warmer piece.

10. Trim seam. Press lightly.

11. Place two ear warmer pieces right sides together, matching sewn seam.

12. Pin along bottom curved edge.

13. Sew along curved edge, pivoting at indentations.

14. Trim and notch seam allowance. Press lightly. (Pressing lightly will help flatten wavy seams.)

15. Turn ear warmer pieces right sides out and press lightly. 

16. Topstitch along sewn edge.

17. Tuck upper hat piece inside ear warmer piece, right sides together.

18. Pin along raw edges. 

19. Sew ear warmers to upper hat piece. Trim.

20. Turn hat right side out and press lightly. 

21. Topstitch along edge of upper hat piece.

Tutorial: Ruffles and Lace Skirt

Today I'm thrilled to be part of a wonderful series at Sewing Mama RaeAnna and SewVery -- Snowflakes and Lace. It's the last day for the series, and there have been some fantastic ideas for sewing with lace!

I'm sharing a ruffled skirt made with dyed eyelet lace and a vintage sheet. It's big and puffy and perfect for twirling! 

To start: I started with a simple skirt on which to layer the ruffles. Dana has a great tutorial for simple skirts with several different variations. (In fact, after I wrote this up I found her layered skirt tutorial. *face palm* My technique is a little different, so I'll still hit "publish.")

For the underskirt: I measured around Eliza's waist (18"). Then I measured how long I wanted the skirt (from her waist to knees). I cut a piece of fabric 1.5x her waist measurement and exactly the length I wanted the skirt to be. (The ruffle at the bottom of the skirt negates any need for adding length for the fold-over waist casing.)

So, here's what I ended up with:

Sew up the sides of the skirt and finish the raw waistband edge. Now you're ready to begin your ruffles!

1. Determine how long you'd like your ruffles to be. Be sure to allow 1/4" for seam allowance and 1/2" for hem (if you choose a traditional hem). Determine how many ruffles you'd like to have. For full ruffles, I tripled Eliza's waist measurement. (18" x 3 = 54") (The lace eyelet ruffles are the same width and length.)

2. Sew the short sides of all the ruffles together to make a loop. (Eyelet ruffles, too.)

3. Hem the bottom edge of all of the fabric ruffles. If you've got a serger, a rolled hem is the easiest. Otherwise, turn up the bottom 1/4" twice and hem.

4. Finish the top edge of all but one of the fabric ruffles. (One ruffle will be sewn to the bottom of the skirt, so it doesn't need to be finished yet.)

5. Use a long stitch to gather your first fabric ruffle. Attach the gathered ruffle to the bottom of the skirt, right sides together and matching side seams. Sew. Finish seam.
6. Press. Determine where you want your ruffles to hit. (How much do you want them to overlap? How long are your ruffles? It may take some playing around with this step.) Mark your fabric for where the ruffles will hit.
7. Gather the eyelet and sew it to the skirt wrong side of eyelet to right side of skirt. (This attachment will be hidden by the next layer of ruffle. Press lightly.
8. Repeat for all ruffle layers.

9. Now it's time for the waistband. Fold the top of the fabric down over the top ruffle - right sides together. Press. Your goal is to enclose the top ruffle seam that's sewn to the skirt so it doesn't show.
10. Now bring the top edge of the skirt back up and match its raw edge to the pressed fold you just created, fabric wrong sides together. Pin.
11. You have created a pocket for the elastic, and at the same time you'll be sewing a seam that will conceal the top ruffle attachment. Sew 1/2" from raw edge/fold meeting -- or enough seam allowance to enclose the raw edge of the top ruffle. Be sure to leave an opening through which to insert the elastic.
12. Press.

13. If you previously finished the raw edge of the top of the skirt, you should have a neatly finished seam inside the waistband. 

14. Insert your elastic (I'm flexible with elastic size because measurements are usually a guessing game for me, and I have to determine my elastic size based on my casing size. Backwards, I know.) Adjust to size and sew it together, being careful not to twist things. Close casing.

There you go! You've got a super flouncy, super poofy, super twirly skirt with lots of personality!

I sewed up a sleeveless Flashback Skinny Tee to match with fabric from my stash. Eliza's got plenty of winter clothes, so this will be part of her Spring/Summer wardrobe.

Usually I steer clear of lots of ruffles because she's so petite I'm afraid she'll get swallowed, but she had so much fun with all this flounce!

I'm giving away 2.5 yards of gorgeous vintage lace trim, and there are lots of other goodies up for grabs, so be sure to head over to enter the giveaway! And while you're there you can check out a week's worth of lacy goodness!

Tutorial: Making Your Own *Cording* for Piping

This happens to me all the time:

I cut out my square to make bias tape for piping.

I cut and sew my long bias strips and reach for the cording, only to find there's not enough.

JoAnn's isn't close by. And cording is sometimes tough to find in other places.

Today I'm offering up another solution that will save you a trip to the store and (bonus!) some money, too. If you've got any type of yarn laying around, you can make your own cording for piping. It's incredibly easy. The process is similar to making a thread belt loop.

How to Make Your Own Cording for Piping

Materials Needed:
Light-colored yarn (any weight, although worsted weight is what I used)
Sewing machine and thread (light or neutral colored)

I suggest light-colored yarn and thread so it doesn't show through your fabric. First figure out how thick you'd like your cording to be. For example, I used a typical worsted weight yarn and chose to use four strands.

Cut them to the length you desire.

Twist the yarns together to make one strand.

Insert the twisted cord under your presser foot.

Set your machine to the longest zig zag stitch. Use a stitch length you normally would. (I use 2.)

Using one hand in front of the presser foot to continue twisting, and one hand behind the foot to pull slightly and guide the cord through, sew over the cord. Try to make sure your needle hits on the outside of the twisted yarn.

Continue sewing over the cord until length desired is reached.

Now you've got cording and you're ready to make some piping! There are tutorials for making your own piping here (Coletterie), here (The Cottage Mama), and here (Burda).

I used this method for the piping on the Maggie Mae and it worked perfectly!

Tutorial and Free Pattern Pouch-Style Doll Carrier

When Lee and Daniel were babies, they practically lived in pouch carriers. I carried them snuggled inside when they were newborns, then transitioned them to a kangaroo carry and hip carry when they got older. With Eliza I preferred the Baby K'Tan (similar to the Moby) and Ergo, but the pouch is still the easiest for me to slip on and off.

Eliza loves to carry her baby, too. After watching her shove stuffed animals and dolls down her shirt for a month, I thought it was time to sew her a carrier.

I hunted around and found a couple of tutorials (here and here), but I wanted something like the pouch that had no buckles or buttons and would be easy for her to get on and off. When I couldn't find a tutorial or pattern for a doll-sized pouch carrier, I decided to make my own and share it.

Materials Needed
Approximately 1/2 yd woven fabric -- if you choose to line it, 1/2 yd of lining fabric
Pattern (available for free HERE)
(Note: This pattern should fit a child 18mo - 3yrs)

First decide if you want to line the carrier. If not, HERE is a tutorial that describes how to sew the pouch using French seams. If you want to line it, the instructions follow.
Seam allowances are 1/2".

1. Tape pattern pieces together. 

2. Cut out fabric on the fold. 45" wide fabric should allow you plenty of room. 

3. Sew the curved edges of the main fabric, right sides together. Sew from one edge to the other. The result will be a big fabric loop. 

4. Press seams to one side.

5. Repeat for lining.

6. Now is a good time to try on the carrier and adjust the fit by making the seam allowance bigger or smaller. If you change seam allowances for the main fabric, be sure to do it for the lining as well.

7. Open pieces so that you have two big circles. Tuck lining into main fabric, matching seams at the pouches, right sides together. Pin and sew ONE long side, right sides together.

8. Turn right side out and press, leaving other long side with raw edges.

At this point you can choose to turn the raw edges of the other long side 1/2" to the wrong sides, press, and edge stitch closed to finish.

Or, you can choose to close the pouch in a style I learned from Lindsay at the Martha Pullen School of Art Fashion. It's pretty nifty and, in my opinion, saves time once you get the hang of it.

Now, still with right sides out, grab main fabric with your left hand at the pouch seam.

Reach under and grab lining fabric with right hand. Your left thumb will be on the RIGHT side of the main fabric. Your right thumb will be on the WRONG side of the lining fabric.

Twist your left hand clockwise. Twist your right hand counter-clockwise. Continue in this direction until you can bring them together and have the RIGHT sides of the fabrics meet. 

Make sure you are matching the seams, right sides together. 

Pin right sides together, at the seam line.

Slowly work your way around, pinning all along the raw edges, right sides together. It will be awkward, but you will be able to reach the entire raw seam.

Sew main fabric to lining, right sides together. Again, take it slowly and you will be able to make it all the way around the seam. Leave an opening large enough to turn things right side out.

Pull the fabric through the opening, turning the sling right side out. 

Press well. Edgestich, catching the opening in your stitching. Or, if you prefer, simply stitch the opening closed.

To wear, fold the sling in half length-wise. Drape over one shoulder, allowing the curved pouch seam to hit around belly-button level. Open up the sling and allow the doll to ride in the "pouch" created by the curved seam.

There you have it! Eliza loves hers, and I hope it pleases other little ones who like to carry their babies. Please let me know in the comments if you have any questions!