Tutorial: Bubble Pants

I made another pair of the pants that originally debuted in my Project Run and Play Week Two look. They're my own attempt to replicate Mini-Boden's version with a twist. This time I used some of my feed sack stash.

It took longer to snap the pictures and orchestrate this tutorial than it did to make the pants. They're super easy. This pair isn't lined, and the tutorial doesn't include instructions for lining them. Check out Dana's tutorial for the basic rundown if you're interested in lining a pair.

the downside to using the feed sack stash is it's limited, so it's hard to match stripes.

First, start with a basic pant pattern. What's unique about this one is it's only two pieces, but the seams are up the sides and around the inseam. It seems more common for two-piece pant patterns to be seamed up the center.

I started with the basic pant pattern from Lotta Jandstotter's Simple Sewing for Baby. 

Once you've got your basic pattern, you're going to create two seams up the front legs. (And now I'll let the pictures and text speak for themselves.)

You're finished! That's all there is to it.

They would be precious in corduroy. I'd like to make some cropped ones for summer.

Tutorial: Crossover Dress (PR&P Guest Post)

I'm bringing home the tutorial published at Project Run and Play a month ago. It was so exciting to be featured over there!

Thanks for inviting me to share today!

I'll be showing you how to modify a basic bodice into a crossover back, one of my favorite designs for little dresses. My first submission to the PR&P Flikr pool was this design, and I've completed another version recently.

I start with an existing dress pattern for the bodice front, and then use it as a guide for the modified back. Let's get started!

Cut two Front Bodices - one Main Fabric and one Lining Fabric. If you've got your own bodice block, that'll work. I prefer a shorter bodice, but this style will work with any basic bodice.

For the back bodice:
Trace the shoulder, armhole, and bottom of the back bodice pattern piece onto your new pattern paper. Then sketch out a very gentle curve (or straight line if you prefer) down from the shoulder. Cut four Back Bodices - two Main Fabric and two Lining Fabric.

Cut one Skirt Front and two Skirt Backs. Mine were 30x12 for the skirt front and 15 1/2 x 12 for the two backs.

(1 - 2) Sew shoulder seams right sides together
(3) Finish seam allowance, press
(4) Repeat for lining

(5) Finish sides of Back Skirt pieces
(6) Fold under left side of one Back Skirt piece and right side of the other piece 1/4". Fold under 1/4" again and press.
(7) Stitch narrow hem on left side of one back piece and right side of the other back piece.

(8) Gather tops of skirts.
(9) Pin Front Skirt to Front Bodice, right sides together.
(10) Pin Back Skirts to Back Bodices, leaving 5/8" seam allowance free on the Back Bodice pieces.
(11) Stitch skirts to bodices.
(12) Finish seam allowances and press.
(13) Here's what you've got so far.

(14) Finish bottoms of Bodice Lining pieces
(15) Pin neck and back openings of Bodice and Bodice Lining, right sides together. Stitch around neck and back.
(16 - 18) When stitching short sides of Back Bodice pieces, stitch as close to skirt side hems as possible, being careful not to catch them in the stitching.
(19) Understitch seam allowance to lining. Turn right side out and press.

(20) Turn wrong side out again and stitch armholes, right sides together. Clip curves.
(21 - 24) Pull skirt back under Back Bodice lining and through shoulder.
(25) Turn dress right side out.

(26) Open out facings and sew sides. Turn facing back down and slip stitch facing down, paying special attention to exposed back side hems. You should be able to easily tuck the raw edges under the lining and stitch.
(27) Fold back pieces over to desired spot. Mark button holes and sew.
(28) Attach buttons.

Lastly, hem it up. 

There you have it! Press it all and find a willing model -- preferably one who doesn't mind matching bows.

Tutorial: Flashback Skinny to Envelope Tee

One of my favorite products of KCWC was the envelope t-shirt.

Here's how I drafted the pattern for that shirt.

(1) Find a onesie or envelope t-shirt. Fold the front in half and trace around it, leaving space for a seam allowance.
(2) It's helpful to turn the onesie inside out to get more accurate lines for the armholes.
(3) Trace the sleeves as well. (I had to find another shirt with sleeves big enough.)

The biggest lesson I learned from KCWC is that I'm a pattern girl. Sure, I can draft my own pattern. But things like armholes and necklines trip me up every time. So I spend copious amounts of time fixing things, tweaking things, and re-drafting things.

Besides my pattern being inaccurate, the kids grow, and I have to start the process all over again when they go up a size.

It's so much easier for me to modify an existing pattern. The Flashback Skinny Tee pattern from Made by Rae is perfect for this project. I bought it and re-mixed it into another envelope t-shirt -- only this one will fit right and includes sizes 12 month - 5T.
Here's how I did it.

(5) Trace the Flashback Skinny Tee pattern in your desired size.
(6) I re-traced the pattern with my modifications - first by making the t-shirt wider and then by making the sleeve caps wider for a gathered sleeve. The final modification was to make the envelope style. Starting at the shoulder seam, curve the shoulder around in the shape you see below. It helps if you have a onesie or envelope t-shirt to see how it works. (Um, my pattern weights are old Harrah's casino tokens. $20 worth to be exact.)
(7) I tested my sketch by folding over the paper pattern to simulate the envelope style.
(8) Re-trace lines as necessary to make things line up.
(9) Lay it out flat to be sure all pieces will meet properly.
(10) Your finished pattern pieces!

(11) Cut your front, back, and sleeve pieces.

(12) Measure around the front and back necklines to determine how much neck binding you'll need.

(13) Cut the pieces for the binding. (Mine were 17" x 1 1/2".)

 

(There are several different ways to bind the neck. I learned this from Sewing for Boys and it's my preferred method. It will leave a raw edge on the inside of the neck, but knit doesn't fray and it'll be less bulky.)

(14) Pin the binding to the neckline, right sides together. Stitch. Try not to stretch the binding as you go along or you'll have gathers along the neck.

(15) Trim seam allowance to 1/4".

(16 - 17) Fold binding over seam allowance to wrong side of fabric.

(18) Pin in place and stitch. (When sewing at this stage, I remove my pins as I go to avoid any puckers.)

(19) Press.

(20) Fold back neckline over front. Baste in place.

(21) Find center of armhole and center of sleeve. Mark with pin.

(22) I gathered my sleeves at this point.

(23) Pin sleeves to armhole, right sides together, being sure to catch all layers. There may be some extra fabric hanging over from the necks.

(24) I prefer to baste sleeves first inside the seam allowance, check their placement, and then go back and stitch properly.

(25) Attach other sleeve.

(26) Pin sides and arms, right sides together. (You can see my Crazy in all its glory here with a pin in every stripe.) 

(27) Stitch each side/arm in one continuous seam.

(28) If you choose a simple hem, turn up sleeves and bottom. My preferred method is to hem with a double needle. (You can also add cuffs. The pattern includes those, too.) Next time I'll lengthen this a little -- it turned out a tad short.

There you go! A Flashback Skinny turned Envelope t-shirt. 

Easy, comfortable, and adorable. 

Here's a list of references that have more information and variations:
Made by Rae Flashback Skinny Tee
Puff-sleeve Flashback Tee Tutorial
90-minute Shirt Tutorial by Dana of MADE
Make Your Own Pattern Tutorial by Dana of MADE
Using the Double Needle by Make It and Love It

EASY Adjustable Waistband Tutorial

Last week I posted an Adjustable Waistband Tutorial. Of course, as soon as it published I thought of a much easier way to do it.

This version won't have the detail, so if you need more explanation, check out last week's link. As always, if you have any questions, leave me a comment and I'll try to help.

EASY Adjustable Waistband Tutorial

Materials:
fabric for casing
ruler, cutter, thread, etc. (you know, the basic stuff)
button hole elastic (Found mine at Hancock's. You could use regular elastic, but you should put actual sewn buttonholes in it to keep it from unraveling.)
two buttons
clear tape