Completed: Eliza's Fall Ensemble #1

First up on the list for Eliza's fall wardrobe is a pair of jeggings. She has a polka dotted pair that she's worn threadbare, and a lightweight knit pair that she loves despite their being two sizes too small.

It was time for a replacement pair.

Here's what I started with:

also, my feet are jacked up. but seeing that flaming duct tape that holds my cutting mat together makes me SO HAPPY.

I started with the polka-dotted pair, which I ripped apart and used to draft a new pattern. When I cut the new ones too short, I decided to add an angled detail at the ankle. For the ankle pieces, the pockets, the yoke, and the front pockets (which I didn't photograph), I used the reverse side of this denim-look knit. It's super shiny, but of course shows up as a dull gray in photos. There's a sheen to the knit that doesn't translate into photos either.

But it does translate into pants that my all-things-shiny-loving daughter will wear. Score.

I used navy thread for all the topstitching. Why? Because I didn't have silver.

And now the Bimaa. I've made this shirt several times (four times, actually), but this is the first time with the shawl collar. I used an old dress of my sister's for the collar, sleeve bands, and waist band. When it came time to find coordinating fabric, I had a tough time choosing from my stash. I knew Eliza would only wear it if certain criteria were met (shine!), so I finally landed on this teal fabric with metallic stripes.

Stats:

Patterns: Bimaa Sweater by LouBee Clothing (shawl option). Self-drafted jeggings.

Fabric: Upcycled knit for sweater bands and shawl. Other fabrics from Jo-Ann. 

Thoughts: I would like this outfit in my size. Really.

I need to bring the neckline up on the Bimaa. I know this and just keep forgetting. Also, I need to shorten the sleeves a tad. Then the 3T will fit her perfectly. There are a few more Bimaas on the list for the Fall, including a hood version and a maxi dress. The Girl loves long dresses.

The jegging pockets are a little big for her tiny tush.

This look was inspired by the "'80s Cartoon" theme for Project Run & Play week one. (I was thinking "Jem" with the zig zags and metallic fabric.) It also fits the upcycled theme (week two) and the denim theme (week three).  Too bad I didn't finish it in time for any of those sew-along linky parties. Ha. And. . . meh.

Up next: a denim skirt with tights and (another) Bimaa. Then my practice version of The Bridesmaid Dress. I'm saving some awesome t-shirts for the boys for Kids Clothes Week (October 20-26).

FLIP this Pattern: Zonen 09 Charlie flip!

The über-talented ladies over at Frances Suzanne just celebrated the year anniversary of the Flip This Pattern series! They're starting up another round this summer, and the competitors are sure to come up with some fantastic pieces!

I had so much fun flipping the Sunki last year and jumped at the chance to be a part of things this time around. So, I'm thrilled to introduce the first pattern in the series: Charlie from Zonen 09. This pattern is simultaneously hip and classic. Here's a peek at my flip, which I'll get to in a bit:

Charlie is a lined, knitted shirt with a lapel collar that comes in sizes 2y - 9y. There are both short and long sleeved versions, and the shirt hem and sleeves are cuffed.

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The way the collar lies is so cool -- it allows the lining to show and makes it different from other collared shirts I've seen.

The Zonen 09 Flikr pool has dozens of variations of Charlie. (In fact, I could get lost for days in the Zonen 09 Flikr pool. There are so many clean, sharp, modern photos and clothes there!)

Here's one of my favorites:

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I should probably mention it's a Dutch pattern available in English, so you may have to use Google translate to read the posts to which I'm linking.

You'll see lots of girls' variations of the Charlie:

And a few fantastic flips like this one:

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When it came time to make my own Charlie, I chose to flip it, too. My boys don't need any shirts right now, so I decided to sew something for Eliza. Would you believe she's never had a nightgown? She's worn mostly her brothers' hand-me-down pajamas -- fleece footies with dump trucks and dinosaurs. She doesn't mind those, but it was time for her own sleepwear.

I found this fabric at Jo-Ann and knew immediately it was destined to become a nightgown. A Charlie Nightgown. 

Here's a list of the changes I made to the original pattern:

• omitted the collar
• added tiny ties to the front slit
• used the largest sleeve size to allow for an elasticized hem and gathered sleeve cap
• extended to gown length

It's lined with Ryan's old t-shirts, so the inside is soft and well worn.

Thoughts

• I sewed a size 2y. She's got an extremely narrow chest. If your child measures smaller than RTW, I would caution to consider head size before sizing down too far. This goes over her head, but it's a close fit. It would be an easy fix if you plan ahead and make the slit a little lower.
• Seam allowances aren't included in this pattern. I'm planning to invest in a compass like the ones we had in high school geometry to aid in consistency in adding seam allowances/grading/etc. I stink at it. It might be easier to fold the pattern pieces in half to ensure symmetry in your newly drawn cutting lines.

Hop on over to Frances Suzanne to get a discount code for your own Charlie pattern, and sew along to qualify for spectacular prizes! Be sure to check out the rest of the summer's series -- I'm eager to see all the creativity headed our way!

Completed: Carolina In My Mind

This week's Project Run and Play challenge is to make something inspired by your favorite Spring Break or vacation destination.

Well, that's a no-brainer for me. Asheville. 

Specifically, Biltmore. I often wander there in my mind. Spring is my favorite time of year at Biltmore. (Actually, every season is pretty spectacular.) The tulips bloom first in the conservatory gardens. The wisteria and azaleas follow. It's a feast for the senses: gorgeous blooms explode against a backdrop of ombre mountains.

I could wax poetic about it all day, but.

I'll make this quick because the kids are going through a High Maintenance stage. Completing an outfit, getting some good shots, and blogging about it is a blooming miracle (pun intended), and I intend to barrage you with a ridiculous number of photos. 

The top is a heavy alteration of the basic Flashback Skinny Tee. It's made from an upcycled women's t-shirt. The striped gray shoulder pieces are gathered at the front and back shoulder seams, and create a cap-sleeve effect that I adore. The striped gray fabric for the neckband and shoulder pieces are from from an upcycled women's sweater (sister's hand-me-down). I kept the shirt's original double-layer hem. The armholes are a little lower than normal because of the changes I made to the pattern, but I'm okay with them. It'll be cooler this summer. 

I knocked off the applique from a miniBoden t-shirt. All the strips are from other women's t-shirts -- three of them I bought to make into Eliza's size this summer. (They were on sale for $3.)

A camper. Obvs. Only in Asheville would a rainbow camper be embraced and totally normal. Ha.

The cardigan is upcycled from my sister's BFF's sweater. It is the piece around which Eliza's summer wardrobe will center. It's soft and drapey and has gorgeous colors: royal blue, teal, pale pink, bright pink, and gray.

The cardigan is self drafted. The bottom and sleeves are banded, and the sleeves have a small pleat at the shoulder seam and soft gathers at the sleeve band. The buttons (bright blue) are my favorite part.

The skirt (also self drafted) is simply the bottom of a woman's t-shirt with a strip of gray ribbing from another upcycled shirt as the waistband.

I figured out turning on music during a photo shoot makes things more fun for both of us. When I look back on these photos in 30 years, I'll only remember The Fun Things. Won't I? Tell me I will.

Thanks for indulging me in the blatant photo overload.

Maybe I'll recover enough to sew for next week's challenge.

Or maybe I'll go to Carolina In My Mind and just not return. Kidding. Sort of.

Completed: Tiny Hipster Zookeeper

Another season of Project Run and Play is underway, and the first week's challenge is "Put Me in the Zoo." I decided to use a few of my favorite patterns, upcycle the last of my mom's '80s jungle jumpsuit, and play along this week.

I used the Bimaa Sweater pattern for the top. Because it's awesome. I widened and gathered the front center to add a little softness and room, and made it sleeveless. Because winter isn't awesome, and I'm not sewing any clothes for it any more.

The cowl neck fabric is the upcycled jumpsuit. I had to piece it because of its limited amount. The shirt is made from organic cotton from my stash. (I'm considering driving down to Asheville just for another Spiritex warehouse sale.)

The hat is the Fedora Hat from Elegance and Elephants. The shorts are the Bubble Pocket Shorts - also E&E. The fedora band and the khaki bubble pockets are from an upcycled H&M dress donated by my lovely sister. The black fabric for the shorts and fedora is plain old black cotton from my stash.

More Details:

Sizes: Fedora (Medium), Bubble Pocket Shorts (3T/4T), Bimaa (3T)

Thoughts: I knew from past experience Eliza would need a bigger size than RTW in both the Bimaa and Bubble Pockets Shorts. The Medium fedora is a tad snug.

She was cool with modeling it (sort of ) and wearing it, but five minutes later she wanted to trade it for a pink shirt. 

Originally my plan was to sew her a mini-wardrobe for Summer, including several interchangeable pieces that she could mix and match herself. I planned to build on this outfit with another top, cardigan, etc. My own (much cuter) version of Garanimals, if you will. She has thrown a massive PINK wrench in this plan, however.

Maybe next week you'll see her modeling something PINK. Or maybe I'll decide to sew for her brothers instead. Ha. 

Completed: Sparkle All the Things

If you follow me on Instagram, you know Eliza has started dressing herself.

Given our history (living with Spiderman for several months), it was actually pretty exciting. I've been looking forward to seeing her express herself this way.

Now, I don't know if it's a Little Girl Thing or Eliza's Thing, but she likes all things sparkly. The more bling, the better. She likes finger nail polish and lipstick. She likes glitter and high heels.

On a late-night run to WalMart for navy thread, I passed clearance t-shirt racks and saw obnoxious pink and silver slinky tops for $3. Pink and sparkly? Of course she'd love it, so I bought one pink one and one silver one.

It only took one after-bedtime sewing session to complete an ensemble, and I left it on the floor last night beside her bed when I finished. She came down for breakfast wearing it.

She threw on her "parkly" shoes and called it done.

Details:
Pattern: Flashback Skinny Tee from Made by Rae. Of course. Self-drafted shorts.
Fabric: WalMart clearance hoochy mama spaghetti strap t-shirts - one silver and one pink. Last time I went to JoAnn, I saw this kind of fabric on the clearance table. "Luxe" or something like that. It was pricey.
Size: 3t
Modifications: 

• Ommitted the sleeves and added bands instead.
• Added a band at the bottom instead of hemming.

Thoughts:
I'm going to buy the leggings pattern from Peekaboo Pattern shop. It goes up to size 12 and includes shorts, capris, and full length leggings as well as a skirt or ruffled version. My self-drafted ones are pitiful.

Tutorial: Ruffles and Lace Skirt

Today I'm thrilled to be part of a wonderful series at Sewing Mama RaeAnna and SewVery -- Snowflakes and Lace. It's the last day for the series, and there have been some fantastic ideas for sewing with lace!

I'm sharing a ruffled skirt made with dyed eyelet lace and a vintage sheet. It's big and puffy and perfect for twirling! 

To start: I started with a simple skirt on which to layer the ruffles. Dana has a great tutorial for simple skirts with several different variations. (In fact, after I wrote this up I found her layered skirt tutorial. *face palm* My technique is a little different, so I'll still hit "publish.")

For the underskirt: I measured around Eliza's waist (18"). Then I measured how long I wanted the skirt (from her waist to knees). I cut a piece of fabric 1.5x her waist measurement and exactly the length I wanted the skirt to be. (The ruffle at the bottom of the skirt negates any need for adding length for the fold-over waist casing.)

So, here's what I ended up with:

Sew up the sides of the skirt and finish the raw waistband edge. Now you're ready to begin your ruffles!

1. Determine how long you'd like your ruffles to be. Be sure to allow 1/4" for seam allowance and 1/2" for hem (if you choose a traditional hem). Determine how many ruffles you'd like to have. For full ruffles, I tripled Eliza's waist measurement. (18" x 3 = 54") (The lace eyelet ruffles are the same width and length.)

2. Sew the short sides of all the ruffles together to make a loop. (Eyelet ruffles, too.)

3. Hem the bottom edge of all of the fabric ruffles. If you've got a serger, a rolled hem is the easiest. Otherwise, turn up the bottom 1/4" twice and hem.

4. Finish the top edge of all but one of the fabric ruffles. (One ruffle will be sewn to the bottom of the skirt, so it doesn't need to be finished yet.)

5. Use a long stitch to gather your first fabric ruffle. Attach the gathered ruffle to the bottom of the skirt, right sides together and matching side seams. Sew. Finish seam.
6. Press. Determine where you want your ruffles to hit. (How much do you want them to overlap? How long are your ruffles? It may take some playing around with this step.) Mark your fabric for where the ruffles will hit.
7. Gather the eyelet and sew it to the skirt wrong side of eyelet to right side of skirt. (This attachment will be hidden by the next layer of ruffle. Press lightly.
8. Repeat for all ruffle layers.

9. Now it's time for the waistband. Fold the top of the fabric down over the top ruffle - right sides together. Press. Your goal is to enclose the top ruffle seam that's sewn to the skirt so it doesn't show.
10. Now bring the top edge of the skirt back up and match its raw edge to the pressed fold you just created, fabric wrong sides together. Pin.
11. You have created a pocket for the elastic, and at the same time you'll be sewing a seam that will conceal the top ruffle attachment. Sew 1/2" from raw edge/fold meeting -- or enough seam allowance to enclose the raw edge of the top ruffle. Be sure to leave an opening through which to insert the elastic.
12. Press.

13. If you previously finished the raw edge of the top of the skirt, you should have a neatly finished seam inside the waistband. 

14. Insert your elastic (I'm flexible with elastic size because measurements are usually a guessing game for me, and I have to determine my elastic size based on my casing size. Backwards, I know.) Adjust to size and sew it together, being careful not to twist things. Close casing.

There you go! You've got a super flouncy, super poofy, super twirly skirt with lots of personality!

I sewed up a sleeveless Flashback Skinny Tee to match with fabric from my stash. Eliza's got plenty of winter clothes, so this will be part of her Spring/Summer wardrobe.

Usually I steer clear of lots of ruffles because she's so petite I'm afraid she'll get swallowed, but she had so much fun with all this flounce!

I'm giving away 2.5 yards of gorgeous vintage lace trim, and there are lots of other goodies up for grabs, so be sure to head over to enter the giveaway! And while you're there you can check out a week's worth of lacy goodness!