Completed: A Vintage Matinee

Today I'm a stop on Jennuine Design's Matinee Dress tour!

My stack of feed sack fabric is quickly dwindling, so I'm selective in choosing projects for it. This dress was the perfect opportunity to dig through my stash and find a great combination.

Here's the original description of the pattern:

The Matinee Dress and Peplum Top features a pseudo bateau neckline with a plunging open back. A simple sash at the empire waistline adds interest and closes the middle back. There are several options for customization: cap sleeves, a contrasting hem band, and dress or peplum lengths.

I made quite a few changes to the pattern. Eliza measured in 12/18 months for the chest and waist, so I stuck with that width and used the 3T length. I lengthened the skirt and shortened the bodice. I moved the sash to the waist and made it into a belt that closes with a large hook and eye. I used ric-rac to keep the shoulders up. And finally, I made the width of the skirt pieces for the size 8 dress so it would be fuller.

Stats:

Pattern: Matinee Dress from Jennuine Designs

Fabric: All fabric is from my stash: the floral fabric is a vintage feed sack.

Size: Combination of 12/18 month, 3T, and 8 as described above.

This is one of the nicest PDF patterns I've used. The sizes are nested, so you only have to print out the size(s) you need. Jenn has been so thorough in her instructions; she caught potential mistakes before I had a chance to make them. The diagrams are simple and easy to follow. For these reasons, this pattern would make a nice one for Confident Beginners.

During the tour, Jenn is offering the Matinee pattern for 20% off with the code matineetour20 in her pattern shop.

She's also collected an awesome assortment of prizes for a giveaway! Enter the Rafflecopter giveaway here!!

Thanks for having me, Jenn!

Completed: Tiny Hipster Zookeeper

Another season of Project Run and Play is underway, and the first week's challenge is "Put Me in the Zoo." I decided to use a few of my favorite patterns, upcycle the last of my mom's '80s jungle jumpsuit, and play along this week.

I used the Bimaa Sweater pattern for the top. Because it's awesome. I widened and gathered the front center to add a little softness and room, and made it sleeveless. Because winter isn't awesome, and I'm not sewing any clothes for it any more.

The cowl neck fabric is the upcycled jumpsuit. I had to piece it because of its limited amount. The shirt is made from organic cotton from my stash. (I'm considering driving down to Asheville just for another Spiritex warehouse sale.)

The hat is the Fedora Hat from Elegance and Elephants. The shorts are the Bubble Pocket Shorts - also E&E. The fedora band and the khaki bubble pockets are from an upcycled H&M dress donated by my lovely sister. The black fabric for the shorts and fedora is plain old black cotton from my stash.

More Details:

Sizes: Fedora (Medium), Bubble Pocket Shorts (3T/4T), Bimaa (3T)

Thoughts: I knew from past experience Eliza would need a bigger size than RTW in both the Bimaa and Bubble Pockets Shorts. The Medium fedora is a tad snug.

She was cool with modeling it (sort of ) and wearing it, but five minutes later she wanted to trade it for a pink shirt. 

Originally my plan was to sew her a mini-wardrobe for Summer, including several interchangeable pieces that she could mix and match herself. I planned to build on this outfit with another top, cardigan, etc. My own (much cuter) version of Garanimals, if you will. She has thrown a massive PINK wrench in this plan, however.

Maybe next week you'll see her modeling something PINK. Or maybe I'll decide to sew for her brothers instead. Ha. 

Tutorial: Ruffles and Lace Skirt

Today I'm thrilled to be part of a wonderful series at Sewing Mama RaeAnna and SewVery -- Snowflakes and Lace. It's the last day for the series, and there have been some fantastic ideas for sewing with lace!

I'm sharing a ruffled skirt made with dyed eyelet lace and a vintage sheet. It's big and puffy and perfect for twirling! 

To start: I started with a simple skirt on which to layer the ruffles. Dana has a great tutorial for simple skirts with several different variations. (In fact, after I wrote this up I found her layered skirt tutorial. *face palm* My technique is a little different, so I'll still hit "publish.")

For the underskirt: I measured around Eliza's waist (18"). Then I measured how long I wanted the skirt (from her waist to knees). I cut a piece of fabric 1.5x her waist measurement and exactly the length I wanted the skirt to be. (The ruffle at the bottom of the skirt negates any need for adding length for the fold-over waist casing.)

So, here's what I ended up with:

Sew up the sides of the skirt and finish the raw waistband edge. Now you're ready to begin your ruffles!

1. Determine how long you'd like your ruffles to be. Be sure to allow 1/4" for seam allowance and 1/2" for hem (if you choose a traditional hem). Determine how many ruffles you'd like to have. For full ruffles, I tripled Eliza's waist measurement. (18" x 3 = 54") (The lace eyelet ruffles are the same width and length.)

2. Sew the short sides of all the ruffles together to make a loop. (Eyelet ruffles, too.)

3. Hem the bottom edge of all of the fabric ruffles. If you've got a serger, a rolled hem is the easiest. Otherwise, turn up the bottom 1/4" twice and hem.

4. Finish the top edge of all but one of the fabric ruffles. (One ruffle will be sewn to the bottom of the skirt, so it doesn't need to be finished yet.)

5. Use a long stitch to gather your first fabric ruffle. Attach the gathered ruffle to the bottom of the skirt, right sides together and matching side seams. Sew. Finish seam.
6. Press. Determine where you want your ruffles to hit. (How much do you want them to overlap? How long are your ruffles? It may take some playing around with this step.) Mark your fabric for where the ruffles will hit.
7. Gather the eyelet and sew it to the skirt wrong side of eyelet to right side of skirt. (This attachment will be hidden by the next layer of ruffle. Press lightly.
8. Repeat for all ruffle layers.

9. Now it's time for the waistband. Fold the top of the fabric down over the top ruffle - right sides together. Press. Your goal is to enclose the top ruffle seam that's sewn to the skirt so it doesn't show.
10. Now bring the top edge of the skirt back up and match its raw edge to the pressed fold you just created, fabric wrong sides together. Pin.
11. You have created a pocket for the elastic, and at the same time you'll be sewing a seam that will conceal the top ruffle attachment. Sew 1/2" from raw edge/fold meeting -- or enough seam allowance to enclose the raw edge of the top ruffle. Be sure to leave an opening through which to insert the elastic.
12. Press.

13. If you previously finished the raw edge of the top of the skirt, you should have a neatly finished seam inside the waistband. 

14. Insert your elastic (I'm flexible with elastic size because measurements are usually a guessing game for me, and I have to determine my elastic size based on my casing size. Backwards, I know.) Adjust to size and sew it together, being careful not to twist things. Close casing.

There you go! You've got a super flouncy, super poofy, super twirly skirt with lots of personality!

I sewed up a sleeveless Flashback Skinny Tee to match with fabric from my stash. Eliza's got plenty of winter clothes, so this will be part of her Spring/Summer wardrobe.

Usually I steer clear of lots of ruffles because she's so petite I'm afraid she'll get swallowed, but she had so much fun with all this flounce!

I'm giving away 2.5 yards of gorgeous vintage lace trim, and there are lots of other goodies up for grabs, so be sure to head over to enter the giveaway! And while you're there you can check out a week's worth of lacy goodness!

Sew All 26: P is for Polka Dots and Peacocks

Katy (No Big Dill) has been hosting a fabulous series called "Sew All 26." Together she, some guests, and sew-alongers have been creating their way through the alphabet. Today I'm joining in for the letter P!

It started with the coat. I was itching to make a turquoise corduroy jacket in a pea coat style. I waffled between the Oliver + S Sunday Brunch Jacket and the Make it Perfect Uptown Girl jacket. Finally I settled on a pattern from my own collection: Simplicity 2629. It's a vintage reprint of a layette collection from the '40s. 

I sketched a gigantic peacock design and used upcycled fabric (also used here), scrap fabric, and lots of matching thread. (I'm a little fanatical in my applique technique.)

I added a ruffle to the front yoke seam, some piping to the collar, and used the buttons from the original upcycled shirt dress. It closes with little thread button loops.

The shirt is the Figgy's Patterns Ayashe Blouse. The polka dot fabric is pale pink -- some I picked up from the fabric store two blocks from our old home in Black Mountain. It was on clearance, and I bought all they had.

My practice version of the blouse was a size 2/3, and it was a tad big. Unfortunately the 18-month size I made this time was a little small. I had to make the neck hole bigger and use a thread loop and button to keep things closed.

I love the details on this shirt. The gathers at the shoulder, the mandarin collar, the elastic waist, and the gathers in the back. . . so sweet.

The skirt (also the Ayashe) is made from denim I had stashed to make Thurlows. (I've decided to make Thurlow shorts instead.) It's a medium-weight denim, and the buttons are some of my grandmother's vintage goodies. I was afraid they were over-the-top (says the girl who appliqued a life-size peacock on a coat), but I'm digging them now.

Sometimes I feel torn between bold colors and pastels. I'm attracted to both! And I fluctuate between loving hip, modern styles and classic, traditional ones. With this ensemble, I've worked it all in!

Stats

Patterns: Ayashe from Figgy's Patterns (blouse and skirt), Simplicity 2629 (jacket)

Fabric: corduroy (bought at Hancock Fabrics last year), polka dot quilting cotton (bought at Carolina Foam and Fabric last year), medium weight denim (bought from Fabric.com last year)

Size: 18 month (blouse), 2T (skirt), Large (jacket)

Modifications: lengthened jacket, added button loop closure to blouse

Thoughts: Figgy's patterns are true to size in my experience. I should've stuck with the 2/3 for the blouse. The skirt fits perfectly. The jacket is extremely wide in the shoulders but otherwise fits well.

The most important part is that she really, really likes it!

Sunki FLIP -- VOTING Time!

**Voting for this month's Flip this Pattern series begins today! There were four awesome creations this month -- all outerwear! It only takes a second to hop over and choose your favorite.

Vote Here.**

When Emily and Ashley asked me to be a part of this series, I was humbled and thrilled. Flipping patterns is one of my favorite sewing activities, and there's been a ton of inspiration so far!

The Sunki tunic and leggings have such beautiful details. 

For months I ruminated, dreamed, and conceptualized.

Here's my FLIP!

 

I had three criteria for this flip:

a) it had to include my favorite Sunki details.

b) it had to be practical and have lots of wear potential.

c) it had to cost under $20 for the ensemble, minus shoes.

It took several practice muslins to get it how I wanted it, but the result is just as I'd imagined.

First, the elements I kept:

-the darling pleated sleeves

-the awesome side panels

-the simple a-line silhouette

Now for what I changed:

-re-drafted the neckline

-added a collar

-omitted the back seam and moved it around front to allow for a button/snap closure (2-year-old "No, I do it!" friendly, of course.)

-modified the envelope shoulder to a straight seam

-added self-made piping to the pocket seams, shoulder seam, and collar

-completely lined the inside, including a reinforced bias-bound panel at the placket

-added belt loops and tie belt to complete the trench coat look

-added cuffs to the sleeves

The leggings stayed exactly as is. However, I did cut two sizes larger to give her lots of ease and growing room. The fabric I used for the leggings was medium weight denim, so it had minimal stretch and wouldn't have been comfortable as tight leggings.

I also added a Flashback Skinny Tee (with a little more ease added) in the same fabric as the lining.

And what trench coat would be complete without a fedora? This one was made with the Elegance and Elephants Fedora Hat pattern (which I love!).

Nitty Gritty Details:

Fabric: lightweight denim, Robert Kaufman for handmade piping/bias trim (both bought at Let's Sew in Evansville, IN), upcycled twill for the fedora, and vintage curtain panel (fabric from M. Lowenstein and Sons) for the contrast/lining on the Sunki and lining for the fedora.

Thank you so much for letting me share this with you! It's been a blast creating it and being a part of this spectacular series.

FLIP this Pattern: Sunki Tunic Flip

It's my turn with the Flip this Pattern series at Frances Suzanne! I'm so excited to show you how I put my own twist on the Sunki Tunic and Leggings pattern. 

Hop over and take a look!

**a very special "thank you" to Rachel of Nest Full of Eggs who sent me her paper version of the pattern.**